WORLDTEMPUS - 12 February 2013Yiah Chan This car is built from the ground up by owner David Zanetta and his son Alessandro, who plays a main managerial role in the company Worldtempus / Yiah Chan In approaching De Bethune's Geneva salon at the Four Seasons it was difficult to assess which was garnering more excitement amongst those waiting to see the brand: the replica watches inside or the car outside, which seemed to be the most photographed automobile in Geneva that week. The Mercedes capturing all this attention was a 300 SLR (W196S) rebuilt from the ground up by De Bethune co-founder David Zanetta and his son Alessandro. It won the 1955 World Sportscar Championship season; legendary racecar driver Stirling Moss also won the 1955 Mille Miglia in a 300 SLR. Nonetheless, for those who managed to drag their eyes away from the car and go inside, De Bethune had - as well as what seemed to be their entire model range - two new replica watches to showcase: the DB28 Skybridge and the DB16 Tourbillon. In contrast to the threatening grey clouds outside, the signature De Bethune mirror-polished and blued titanium of the Skybridge provided a welcoming dash of color. The "bridge" of the new model's name refers, of course, to the dominating feature of the dial: an arrow-shaped bridge that rises boldly and forms a "bridge to eternity" or a bridge across the sky, as it were - whichever it is, should be left to the wearer's imagination perhaps. The use of mirror-polished titanium continues with the Skybridge's incredibly light case, which features the DeBethune floating lugs, and the blue theme continues in the flame-blued and mirror-polished steel hands. The new DB28 Skybridge in all its flame-blued glory Worldtempus / Yiah Chan Celestial bridgesThe thematic continuity also extends to the spherical titanium hour markers (representing planets perhaps? ), which mirror De Bethune's spherical moon-phase indicator in the Skybridge. As is also the case with the brand's DB25 Jewellery, the constellation on the Skybridge's dial can be personalized to become something meaningful to the owner. The stars themselves are discreetly twinkling specks of white gold and diamond in the blue firmament. So how is this new piece powered? By the DB2105 hand-wound caliber with a power reserve of six days, which is visible through the transparent case back. It, too, has handcrafted finishing and decoration with mirror-polished blued steel. Inside the new DB28Skybridge Worldtempus / Yiah Chan Although the case is 43 mm - including the bezel, it sits at a decently sized 45mm - but as is the case with all of the brand's replica watches boasting the use of floating lugs, the design of the latter means that it can sit comfortably on wrists unaccustomed to such a size. The pocket-watch-like crown placement also makes this size easier to wear. This is a classic De Bethune and the immediate thought is that it will appeal to fans of the DB25 Jewellery, though it does seem a little less formal than the Jewellery due to the contrasting minute track surrounding the dial. It seems to give the replica watch a more flexible dressy or casual aspect. The DB28 Skybridge is priced at 98,000 Swiss francs. A perpetual calendar with deadbeat secondsFrom the simplicity of the Skybridge, De Bethune leaps to the other extreme with the other new offering, the DB16 Tourbillon Regulator. The moon phase indicator on this replica watch comes with a retrograde moon age indicator linked to it, a leap year indicator in the sky at 12 o'clock, perpetual calendar with deadbeat seconds (said to be the first time there has been a perpetual calendar deadbeat in a watch) and, of course, the 30" silicon and titanium tourbillon of the name. The latter comprises 64 parts; weighs 0. 18 grams; and forms part of the hand-wound, 36,000-vph DB2509 caliber that is visible through the case back. The DB16 Tourbillon Regulator is deceptively simple-looking Worldtempus / Yiah Chan The tourbillon and four-day power reserve are left discreetly to the underside, making the silver-toned guilloche dial simple, clear and deceptive, as it merely shows hours, minutes, and seconds from the center, while the date is depicted in a sub dial at 9 o'clock, the day at 6 o'clock, and the month at 3 o'clock. The balance wheel is made from the combination of silicon and palladium and with a balance spring with a flat and a curve, as well as a silicon escape wheel and a triple pare-chute system used to enhance the resistance, both which are patented by De Bethune. The triple pare-chute protects the movement via a titanium bridge secured by a spring-based system. Discretely showing off technical prowess Of course, even though the sky is in a far more miniature form in this replica watch than in the previous release, De Bethune has, characteristically, not held back in terms of detail and finishing, with the flame-blued steel sky studded with gold stars and the spherical moon phase in platinum and flame-blued steel at 12 o'clock. The case itself is pink gold, 43mm in diameter and 13. 13 mm high. It utilizes De Bethune's cone-shaped lugs. As I mentioned above, this is a deceptive watch, if you just look at the dial side, and this desire for discretion will appeal to those who don't want all a watch's complications shown front and center. It is a technical show of achievement for a brand that fiercely prides itself on its technical achievements and patents claimed. It can be yours for 350,000 Swiss francs. The case back of the DB16 Tourbillon Regulator features a tourbillon escapement beating at 36,000 vph Worldtempus / Yiah Chan CAPTIONSDBCAR1. jpgDB28SKYBRIDGE1. jpgThe new DB28 Skybridge in all its flame-blued glory Yiah ChanDB28SKYBRIDGE2. jpgInside the new DB28Skybridge Yiah ChanDB16TOURBILLONREGULATOR1. jpgThe DB16 Tourbillon Regulator is deceptively simple-looking Yiah ChanDB16TOURBILLONREGULATOR4. jpgThe case back of the DB16 Tourbillon Regulator features a tourbillon escapement beating at 36,000 vph Yiah Chan
Stemming from fruitful cooperation involving the Musee International d'Horlogerie (MIH) plus the Manufacture Zenith, the Captain Winsor Annual Calendar Boutique Version combines the most specific series-produced calibre by using a complication that is certainly both handy and progressive: the yearly calendar. The artistic thoughts powering it is none aside from the curator on the Musee Intercontinental d'Horlogerie (MIH) in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Ludwig Oeschlin. This passionate fanatic has intended an once-a-year calendar exhibiting the day on the 7 days, the date along with the thirty day period, even though necessitating just one annual adjustment. This complication is meant to be a lot more accessible than the perpetual calendar for the substantial variety of chronograph enthusiasts. So as to make sure exceptional readability, this display is presented by a few concentric discs. The outer disc suggests the day, the middle one the month, though the innermost disc exhibits the working day in the week. The system is the two basic and sophisticated: for 31-day months, the day disc moves the thirty day period disc forward, even though for 30-day months, the month disc makes the date disc skip the thirty first. Just the transition from February to March necessitates manual adjustment. Based on a clever and elegantly restrained construction, this complication contains just 9 cellular features, whereas most calendars require in between 30 and 40.
Imaginative Boldness
The mechanism powering this chronograph represents the last word expression of Zenith's horlogical expertise: the high-precision El Primero motion, that has been created within the Manufacture for more than forty many years. El Primero is the only series-made movement to conquer at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations for every hour, indicating a fee of 1 beat every tenth of the next. The Captain Winsor Yearly Calendar Boutique Version properties the automatic El Primero Calibre 4054. This in-house movement, circular-grained and adorned with Côtes de Geneve, is visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, itself surrounded by the engraved inscription Captain special edition.
The Captain Line
In its early days, the reputation of your Manufacture in Le Locle was notably built on the reliability of its marine chronometers, which served to calculate the position of ships at sea. It was this legendary era, this sense of adventure and on the higher seas that Zenith wished to recapture in creating the Captain line in 1952. Today, the refined appearance of this line of contemporary chronographs strongly evokes the charm of historical counterparts. The Captain Winsor Once-a-year Calendar Boutique Edition is no exception to the rule. This version available exclusively at Zenith boutiques is issued in two versions: just one that has a matt white dial and 18-carat rose gold case; plus the other with a steel case framing a dial in graded silver and palladium-toned shades. Representing a successful alliance involving the knowledge and innovative skills of two veritable watchmaking institutions, this timepiece embodies an ingenious blend of user-friendliness and optimal readability.